![]() If you try simply pushing back on the brushes by pushing them into the brass housings you should find that they will just click out of the way (by design). You described sliding the spring off the side of the brushes to hold the brush back. It might be good to investigate your SS bolts at some point to make sure the female thread is not corroding and not going to fail under pressure at some point. You will get only these if you order manifold bolts from us now, and you will know that they are the new ones because they are black rather than silver. Late last year we discovered a better spec of zinc plating (a rare process in the industry) that has proven highly successful at resisting this corrosion. So the new model compressors and any spare parts you buy will be the black coating better bolts. I see that ARB have in recent compressors improved the zink coating that they use to reduce the problems. What I have done here is to use silicone grease as a dielectric, this provides corrosion resistance in the thread of the bolt allowing electrical conductivity but excluding air from the thread and thereby limiting potential for galvanic corrosion (I agree that it will not totally stop it). So in other words, while your stainless bolts won’t corrode along the body of the bolt the way ours did, it will over time eat the female thread that it is screwed into.īut unfortunately, the zinc bolts do suffer a bit from heat and moisture combined with pressurized oxygen - the perfect storm for corrosion! SS is further unbalanced in galvanic difference against the aluminium that it is threaded into than the zinc plating on the bolts that we use. You mentioned that you now run stainless manifold bolts. ![]() ![]() It does seem that they do continually upgrade things as needed and in this case have responded to my questions about the wiring harness and other issues. I just had a dig back through communications that I had with ARB and here is the relavant part of advice from one of the ARB Compressor gurus who designed this compressor. air outlet pipe to take high heat, Stainless braid hose.Īnother bit of useful information from ARB.Anderson plug on motor (it is a bit of overkill).Upgrade wiring as appropriate to the sort of use you are going to give it.Upgrade to better relay and circuit breaker rather than fuse.A cooling fan is a good idea, particularly for hot mounting locations.hot air coming out can melt the air pipes at the compressor. ![]() Older compressors only had a small 3mm bolt holding the main crank bearing for the piston and this was prone to breaking off.Can suffer from some internal corrosion from water being trapped inside.Plugs, wires and the relay can melt before the 40A Maxi fuse blows.The compressor will run hot if used hard for filling a storage tank and tyres, particularly if it is under the bonnet, in a hot environment and hot already.Amperage gets higher and higher as the pressure increases so does the load.Original wiring, relays, fuse and little plugs are barely adequate for the high Amperage that these compressors use.So it is very good value to service them rather than buy another expensive new one.īut they do suffer a few problems which can be fixed.Parts were actually reasonably cheap from ARB.Well designed and quite easy to pull apart and fix.Have a pretty good air output for the size of the compressor.They use all roller bearings and a huge strong front main motor roller bearing.They are surprisingly robust little compressors.I will probably add to this when I have time so bear with me if your interested in fixing your own. ARB Compressor Rebuild (Compressor Review and Rebuild How To)Īs I have now re-built several of the ARB CKMA12 compressors, I thought I should do a bit of a write up on how to.
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